東澳粉鳥林 Fenniaolin, East side of Su'ao, Taiwan (Dong Ao)
蘇澳來過約莫三次，這次是在地朋友循著小時候的足跡帶我到這裡。從遠處看不出來是個灣口。來到港口邊還要登上防波堤才會看到另一邊截然不同的美景。而這裡已經有一堆人在玩水了。朋友說小時候這裡是平地人的地方只有放暑假才會走路從山上走來玩耍。平地人與山地人似乎有條界線。大約是以蘇花公路為界線，往山上過去是山地人的地方。往海邊過去則是平地人的地盤。兩邊不是特愛往來。Been here about three times. This time I was led by friend and her childhood memories to Fenniaolin. You really cannot tell there is a hidden cove. Once you reach the little harbor there, climb up the levy in order to see the totally different view on the other side. My friend said it was the "territory" of the plainsmen. They usually walked down from the hills to here during the summer break. There seemed to be a invisible border between plainsmen and aborigines. The border is probably the old Su-Hua Highway. Towards the hills there are more aborigines. The opposite is for plainsmen. The two don't seem to like to deal with each other.
這裡在網路上出名後造成遊客「入侵」。在防波堤左邊的砂礫灘上有許多人開房車, 露營車來釣魚。堤防的這邊則是戲水的遊客。「觀光客只會帶來破壞，但也能讓叔伯阿姨們賺錢。」朋友說出了兩難的心態。Following the exposure on the Internet, tourists "invaded" this area. The pebble beach on the left of the levy is with many people there fishing with their camping vans and SUVs. On the other side, tourists enjoy water sports. "Tourists only bring damages to the land, but my cousins and aunties all rely on them for living." said my friend with a bit bitterness.
在另一邊的金岳瀑布更是誇張。烤肉的遊客很多，也有些人全副武裝來溯溪的。「我們原住民才不用穿那麼多，穿拖鞋也可以爬石頭上去。」朋友的姪子說著。在入口處的原住民更是將附近的地闢成停車場，每次收費100。另外，還會帶領客人上去溯溪。The situation is worse over Jinyue Waterfalls. Many tourists barbecue food there. Some dressed up for upstream trekking. "We native Taiwanese people never need all that equipment and outfits. We can climb rocks with our sandals." said the nephew of my friend. The owner of the land around the entrance also turned the land into parking lots to collect parking fees at NTD100 per time. He also leads tourists to go upstream trekking.
觀光客來了確實為當地帶來了財富，但是原住民的身影卻悄悄地從這美麗的海灣與山溪中淡出了。Tourists have indeed brought fortune to the locals. However, the native Taiwanese have also faded out from the picture of the beautiful cove and waterfalls.
with Liu Flower
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